Thursday, July 31, 2014

Unmitigated Disasters: Kherwada Edition

Well, these last few days have given me quite a few lessons in what can go wrong during field work, thats for sure!!

To begin our first day in the field, we drove almost two hours from the health station we were staying at to the village of Nagar. Upon arrival, we were shown to a nearby house and blankets were laid out for everyone to sit on. Now, it just so happened that this house was sitting at the corner of the main road and foot traffic was quite heavy at the time we came. So, we had an enormous group of women (almost 25 - 30 at one point; we were supposed to have no more than 10), as well as hoards of school children and men standing by and staring at us. We asked the school children to move along only to be inundated by a new wave of children on their way home from school. Meanwhile, men kept trying to enter the women's group and were getting upset and giving me dirty looks when I asked them to leave. This was admidst a loud and unruly group of women, many of whom got bored of the hub-bub and left before we introduced the second technology.

The men's group was even more of a disaster due to the fact that the village drunk decided to show up and be heard. Not only did he convince the remaining men not to vote for one of the technologies, he also loudly belittled the group's responses and regularly talked over the quieter men. Needless to say, my attemps to get him to leave or be quiet were futile and he continued to be a regular source of laughter for the rest of the men. He continued going off on random tangents to talk about issues that had nothing to do with our discussion and loudly proclaimed again and again "these are modern times! we want modern technologies!" ... By the time we finished, I honestly could not wait to get out of there. The only consolation was a delicious cup of chai before getting back into the car to start the bumpy journey back to the health station.

We had yet another drunk man in the our discussion on the second day, although I admit he was much easier to handle. It helped that there were more elderly men in that group and they could tell him to be quiet (because many men were actually very interested in the technologies).

I'm starting to think I jinxed myself after my last blog entry. Things just did not run smoothly this time at all. We were hardly ever on time to meetings, whole groups of men and women never showed up, we went waaaay out of the way to pick up field coordinators, and the driver kept stopping to run his own personal errands on Wednesday. Not to mention, the main bridge back to the health station was washed out by the rains on Tuesday, so I was asked to pay 500 extra rupees (about $8) for us to go back to Kherwara and through a neighboring block. I know that isn't much when think about it in USD, but it's quite a lot to ask for by Indian standards.

So, all that said, here are my take-aways from this field adventure:

Plan for the unplanned. Things will inevitably go pear-shaped, even if they have been going splendidly before that.

Expect delays. As you all probably know, the rest of the world does not run on western time. If you want to be somewhere by a specific time, plan to leave earlier than necessary. Also, your schedule is not your own. Unexpected road-side meetings, getting lost, unpassable roads, or getting stranded beside a flooded bridge are all possibilities when it comes to field work.

Be culturally sensitive. I admit, during some of these discussions I was frustrated by what I saw as a lack of understanding on the part of the participants. For instance, one group was adament that they should receive a water-based toilet, even though there was nothing to suggest that they had existing water connections or that they even understood the expense of bringing that technology to them. I truly did not push the issue, besides to remind that them Rajasthan is a dry region and a water-based toilet might not be the best solution for them in times of water shortage. Upon speaking with the field coordinator about this, he reminded me that it is not necessarily a bad thing that these people want a water-based toilet, and that it speaks to their aspirations for the future. After all, why shouldn't they have equal opportunity to access modern technologies?

Patience is key. I really wanted to scream at the drunkard during that first meeting. I mean, REALLY!!! And a million other moments I can think of during my last two months here where I have repetetively tried to get a point across just to be met with blank stares, stupid bureaucratic procedures, corruption, or just outright ignored. Letting go of things has become easier as time goes on (remind me to tell you all about the saga of trying to get my room switched at the hostel). Deep breaths. Patience. Learning to laugh it off. And if you have to scream, do it in private. Tears are a definite no-no in public.

Respect people's time. Most villagers I meet are hard-working people. Also, many of them are poor and struggle just to get by. Yet, they give up work time to meet with me. The vast majority are respectful, humble, and even down-right thankful to receive a visit from outsiders. They offer me chai, if they have milk. They give me a chair or a bed to sit on. They share their stories with me. When I thank them for being gracious enough to spend time with me, they instead thank me (sometimes profusely) for coming to see them. It is a humbling experience to say the least.

I know I promised pictures, but I am nowhere near my camera right now, so look for those soon!

xoxo,

Alec

Friday, July 25, 2014

To the Field and Back Again!

Hi everyone!

Well, I am happy to report I have successfully completed my first (research related) field visit. Everything went as smoothly as could be expected. I must give a special shout-out to my field coordinator / partner-in-crime / all around cool dude, Anantvijay, for his hard work in setting everything up ahead of time. I had become used to things running smoothly during my stint with summer school (thanks again to impeccable planning), but as you may have guessed, that is not the norm here in India. The fact that I have a research grant and was able to pay for these extras seems to have made all the difference (thank you, DGHI!!). Plus, I think I am lucky to be placed with a great team who really value the project I am working on.

As you can see, I did find a translator after all. I had an AHA! moment and reached out to a colleague that my advisor introduced me to while he was visiting in June, and she found me someone very quickly. His named is Dev Vrat and he is an MBA student in Udaipur doing translation work on the side. He came along and led two focus group discussions yesterday. Admittedly, it took him a bit to find his stride, hence the first group went very slowly. He was open to suggestions and ended up doing much better for the second group. I am looking forward to working with him for the rest of the coming week.

I admit, I am feeling quite anxious about the level of work I have to accomplish in the next few weeks here. Not only am I responsible for completing these focus groups, but I will also have to write a report and give a presentation to the NGO. Also, I have been asked to work on setting up the next round of surveys for my advisor, which will hopefully take place in November/December of this year. I am adament that I have at least SOME time for travel and fun, especially seeing as I will be celebrating my 26th birthday here! Others may not agree with me, but I can already feel my stomach tightening with anxiety at the thought of everything I have to do. Beeing cooped up in Udaipur isn't going to help me get anything done any better. So, I am planning short trips to Mumbai (August 7 - 11) and Delhi (August 14 - 17) to see friends and have a little fun Then, I will come back and present my results before heading home on August 20th.

One thing that might de-rail my plans are the rains. It has been heavily raining since last night, and I am headed back to the field Monday - Friday. There were already some bridges that had been washed out and huge rocks that had fallen and were blocking roads yesterday (Friday). If the rain really picks up it could make going to the villages impossible. Which means I will have to go back to the drawing board! We shall see what happens ...

Yesterday was a bit dreary, but I did manage to snap a picture of Kherwara during the monsoon season. I will post a picture from a few weeks ago for comparison :) Granted, these are different villages, but you can see a definite change in the vegetation already!


Pareda village, Kherwara block (mid June)

Sagwara village, Kherwara block (late July)


Thanks for stopping by! I'll be in the field all next week, but will update when I get back (a promise  of more pictures for next time, even if they are a bit dreary)!

xoxo

Sunday, July 20, 2014

Visit to Chittorgarh and Project Updates

Hello all,

I am happy to say that I am finally getting a day of rest during this busy summer. In fact, I laid in bed until 11:00 this morning!! I can't remember the last time that happened! It was wonderful to say the least. I also just noticed that today in the 20th of July, which means I will be headed home to NC in a month's time. Hard to believe yet another month has flown by!!

Yesterday my friend Mercy and I took a day trip to see Chittorgarh Fort, which is both the largest fort in Asia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We hired a guide for a two hour tour and proceeded to drive through the complex and stop at different sites. The area of the fort covers 700 acres and we were told it would take three days to see everything by foot!! I have found a good website which explains more about the fort's history and significance (as well as some of the best known structures which you will see in my pictures below): http://www.chittorgarh.com/tourism_at_chittorgarh.asp

As for work, everything is moving along with my research project. I finalized the guide I will need to lead focus groups and I have selected the villages I will be going to. Now it is a matter of coordinating with the different blocks that I will be visiting and seeing when they can help us set up the groups. I am also in the process of trying to find a translator to come to the field with me each time and to also help me with document translation. The NGO introduced me to a male student who seemed very excited for the opportunity, but totally balked when I sent him the document for translation. Still don't know what that was about. So now it's back to the drawing board on that. Luckily, I have mulitple friends helping me out with this, so hopefully I can find someone soon! The NGO has people I can use if nothing comes together in the end, but they can't guarantee the same person every time so that means more work for me in the terms of training each new person. If nothing ends up working out before the week is over, I will just have to go with that option.

The monsoon weather was worse last week than it had been, meaning that electricity and internet were being knocked out on a regular basis. This was a bit frustrating for me as my computer is getting old and does not last long without a battery hook-up. There were a few times I had to abandon my work for an hour or more until the power came back on and I could resume what I was doing.

Depending on how quickly we can get things together in these next few days, I just might be heading to the field again later this week (Thurs/Fri). However, I am hoping to make some time to go and see other sites around Rajasthan in the coming weeks! I might even make a trip to Jaipur :) Will keep you all posted ... for now, enjoy the pics!











































Friday, July 18, 2014

Food for Thought

I'm headed to Chittorgarh Fort tommorrow (hopefully), so I plan to update with pictures and stories later.

In the mean time, I wanted to share two things with you all ...

1. Recent NY Times article on Poor Sanitation & Malnutrition in India: http://www.nytimes.com/2014/07/15/world/asia/poor-sanitation-in-india-may-afflict-well-fed-children-with-malnutrition.html

2. My favorite academic/statistician, Hans Rosling, presenting "the best stats you've ever seen" (and it is): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usdJgEwMinM

Xoxo,

Alec

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Picture time!

Here are a few pictures of what's been going on around here lately.

The first are of Hatipole Market and downtown shopping with girlfriends. Then there is Badi Lake (absolutely incredible) and a couple from the last day of class - me and two of my team members, Manuj and Pallavi.

Enjoy!